Showing posts with label Huayna Picchu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Huayna Picchu. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 8, 2020

The Heart of the Reef & Paradise Cove

My mom texted me the other day and said, "I didn't know you were going to the Great Barrier Reef."  I replied to her saying that the GBR was close, but I was technically at a different reef.  In my brief preparation for my stay in the Whitsundays I read a quick blurb on the internet about how I was near Hardy Reef, not the GBR, and then I moved on.  Here's something to know about me - I hate planning. I hate doing research. I don't want to learn about where I'm going. All I want to know before hand is what I need to do to be safe. Other than that, I just want to go there and learn from locals. I'd rather talk to someone than sit in my apartment reading the Internet or a travel book. I feel like some of the magic of the unveiling of this new-to-me location is minimized if I know about it and have already seen a lot of pictures. The flip side to preserving this magic is that, frankly, I can be quite ignorant about where I am and I can miss out on amazing opportunities. Several years ago when I went to South America with Melissa I was quite thankful she was more of a researcher and planner because there were several experiences that would have been unavailable to us because they required reservations far in advance, like our hike up and down Huayna Picchu (you can check out her go pro video here where at times you can hear me repeating the mantra "people do this every day, people do this every day, people do this every day...").

So... yesterday my plan was to lay by the lagoon and not do much of anything else.  It was supposed to rain a little bit in the morning, but then clear up.  It did just that, but then it started raining again in the early afternoon - down pouring, in fact. I decided to eat some lunch and get my nails done while it rained. In a small beach town there isn't much else to do while it rains. No complaints, though - I'm happy for Australia to get rain!  Plus, my feelings about rain are quite different now because I'm not on vacation and hyper aware that I only get "x" more days of sunshine.  Had I done research I might have also learned that I am visiting the Whitsundays in the rainy season. Who knew? To be fair, I did check the weather trends for this area before I booked my trip and even thought it's the rainy season it is warm and sunny most of the time.  Anyway, I'm a little off track here. While I was getting my nails done I was speaking with the the two lovely ladies working in the shop and they looked at me like I was mad crazy when I said something about missing the GBR.  They were astounded that I didn't know that Airlie Beach is called the Heart of the Reef.  This is because there's a massive coral reef in the shape of the heart in the area, not necessarily because it's the central or middle part of the reef. You can read a little more about it here if you'd like.  I have not seen the heart myself because you have to access it by helicopter or seaplane.  After more than 30 hours of travel a week ago I have very little desire to get back into a plane right now. I'm also 99% sure a helicopter ride would make me yack. As if I needed another reason, the stories of the helicopter crashes in Hawaii don't exactly get me interested.

Most people who are interested in going to the GBR do it by going up to Cairns, a town about a 7.5 hour drive north of here. I think that if you access it from Cairns there are more opportunities to see more vibrant coral and possibly more diverse marine life. Let's be real - I haven't researched it so I only know a tiny bit of information from the snippets I've heard from other travelers.  I feel pretty stupid for not putting two and two together and realizing that the GBR is practically right outside my window, but the more I think about it the more I realized that there have been a lot of advertisements for opportunities to see "the reef" and marine life, but very little referring to it as the GRB here. And then add in the fact that there are sections of the reef named different things... I won't belabor the point any further.  What is pretty cool is that I actually did see part of the GBR on a snorkeling trip I booked the other day.

The Whitsundays is a beautiful region and also totally not what I expected.  I mentioned in my last post that there is very little beach access despite it being a beach town.  It's more of a hub to the destinations than the actual destination itself.  If you get in the water here you have to make a decision of whether you're going to risk getting stung by a jelly fish or wear a stinger suit. This is why I end up at the lagoon most days. I don't really want to have to buy or rent a stinger suit and I'm not too keen on getting stung, so I might as well just swim in the man-made lagoon and look out into the ocean. I'm a liiiiiittle disappointed that I'm not actually in the ocean every day, but it's not the end of the world. Because it's the hub to the popular destinations I decided to book one excursion while I am here and then also a trip to a sanctuary to see some crocodiles, kangaroos, koalas, and wombat.

I went into a shop for Red Cat Adventures to book a day trip that involved snorkeling, lunch, and a trip to Whitehaven beach.  If you were to do a Google image search for the Whitsundays the bulk of the pictures would be from Whitehaven beach. Again, if I did a little research I would have learned that Airlie Beach, the main beach town where I'm staying, does not look like Whitehaven beach.  I thought the entire area looked like that before my arrival. It was a little disappointing to find out that I had a totally false image in my head, but that's absolutely my fault for not doing better research.  So, anyway, I went in to book the trip and was presented with the opportunity to do an overnight trip to Paradise Cove that included the snorkeling and trip to Whitehaven, but also included an overnight stay at this amazing resort - all for the same price.  I hesitated for a moment, then the saleswoman told me that they were looking to fill the trip because there were too many people who were requesting the day trip and not enough interested in going on the overnight trip. It seemed to me that they wanted to provide people with the day trip components, but they also need people to go online and do TripAdvisor and Facebook reviews of the overnight experience to drive more business. I accepted the offer for the next day.

It was a lovely experience! First off, I met some great people. I've been surprised how many Irish people I have met. Two of the four couples I spent most of my time with on this excursion were Irish, as was one of the women who did my nails yesterday and a man I met in a pub a few afternoons ago. The other couples were British and American. They were all lovely. It always amazes me how easy it can be to make new friends while traveling.  We all set off around 1:30 PM for about a 45-minute boat ride to our snorkeling location.  We left about an hour late because the gear box on the boat apparently broke right as they were last bringing the boat into the marina. My thought was, "Take all the time you need, gents." I didn't particularly care about leaving late, as long as our boat was in proper working condition.  After it was fixed, we were off!

We snorkeled for about 30-45 minutes. Generally speaking, I like to snorkel, but after about 10 minutes I become a bit bored with it. This was a positive experience for me in that I didn't tap out until right about when our guide was asking everyone to get back in the boat.  I got to see several different kinds of fish, some the size of sardines and some as big as my entire torso, if not larger.  I have no clue what any of them were called, but there were a lot and they were swimming all around us.  We also saw a jellyfish right before we got in the water, but none of them bothered us. Our guide took a few pictures, including some under water, but didn't tell any of us how to get those pictures later. If I'm able to get them later I will make sure to post them.  Here are a few of me in my stinger suit and jumping off the front of the boat.








After we finished snorkeling we took about an hour boat ride to the resort.


The resort was located on the main land, but it's tucked into a cove that makes you feel like you're on a private island.  The story was a bit unclear, but it seems that a millionaire, who maybe owned a telecommunications company at some point, built the resort for himself and put it in his wife's name before declaring bankruptcy.  I guess she still owns the resort and the tourism companies rent it out from him.  He reserves the right to book out time on the calendar for his own use, but it's often host to guests.  A similar version of this story was told over and over, depending on who we asked.  No one seemed to have the exact version of the story.

When we arrived there were all sorts of snacks laid out of us, which we devoured.

The view from the main house was absolutely amazing.


I didn't take any good video or pictures of our bunk house, but it's safe to describe it as "glamping".  I stayed in a shared room with three sets of bunk beds, a private toilet, a sink, and air conditioning.  The air conditioning was pretty amazing for me because my Airbnb in Jubilee Pocket does not have it.  The cabins have broad beautiful porches, but I didn't spend much time there because we were warned that our cabin was in a "high snake" area. I wasn't took keen on looking for any or giving myself the opportunity to come into contact with them by chance.

We saw a bunch of other wild life like turtles, a bird that looked like some sort of wild turkey or peacock, and what many of us believed to be a dingo.  One of the American guys who lived in Australia for a while said that many people refer to any feral dog as a dingo, so I don't know if we actually saw one, but that's what people were calling it.



After getting situated I went swimming in the pool for a little while, screwed around in the outdoor shower that had lovely hot water, and then took a real shower in the outdoor showers by our rooms (looking out for snakes the entire time).  After that, we ate dinner - a lovely chicken curry and rice prepared by our skipper. We all hung out for a bit and then hit the hay for the night.








The next morning we all packed up and headed to Whitehaven beach.  The boat ride took about an hour and then we had around two hours on the beach.  The beach is full of beautiful white sand that doesn't get hot and most of the water is quite shallow.  There's no doubt that it was gorgeous, but I have to say that I was a little underwhelmed.  I feel like a snob saying that, but I think I would have enjoyed it more if it were a beach I could waste the day on, as opposed to a beach I had that experience within a specific time frame.  I have been spoiled by all of the amazing beaches I've been able to experience in Turks & Caicos, Vietnam, etc.










All in all I really enjoyed the experience and am happy I did the over night package. I was with cool people who made it easy to have a good time.



Wednesday, January 11, 2017

Huayna Picchu Video

Remember how I said Melissa and I hiked Huayna Picchu, the tallest peak at Machu Picchu? Well, Melissa had her Go Pro running for a bit of the descent and has posted the video to YouTube. You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/MNw7i-wWWmc

The video isn't a narrative or anything especially polished. It's just about 11 minutes of our climb down. It gives a good sense of what that trail and climb were like. Please ignore my obvious body language of freaking out. LOL While intellectually I wasn't afraid of falling, my instinct took over and told me to be afraid. I did fine for most of the way up and for a portion of the way down, but I was definitely struggling at the end of the ascent and the beginning of the descent. 

Machu Picchu: Part 2

I don't have as many pictures of Machu Picchu to post right now as I'd like because I took a lot of photos on my camera instead of my phone. My iPhone takes pretty great photos, but I think I got some better shots on my camera, even though it's nothing really fancy. When I travel I like to try to take pictures to capture some memories, but I'm also very realistic that my pictures of the sites I visit will never compare to those of professional photographers. On this trip I've felt a little caught between my inclination to really work on being present and the compulsion to take photos and videos. I've posted to my Instagram and Snapchat accounts, and in some regard I've regretted the fact that I've been online at all. I'm really looking forward to not have as much internet access on the last third of our trip.

When we arrived at Machu Picchu I didn't know what to expect, despite having seen photos of the site before. I was breathless when I first saw it. To explain its massive span across the horizon is the same as trying to convey the height of a mountain. It's nearly impossible. After our long wait in line and a busride that had me fraught with nerves Melissa and I entered the site around 7:30/8:00 AM. We were so thankful because the sky was almost completely obstructed, but we got a few pictures in when the sky cleared for about 10 minutes. Here are a few pictures that are a combination between some I took and some Melissa took.

 
The Sabres came to Machu Picchu with me. 

 
Melissa brought the Pens with her too.

 

 
I'm pretty sure this was one of our early 8:00 AMish photos because we have jackets and another layer on. You can tell the later in the day photos because we lose layers along the way.

 
Llama, llama, llama, sheep. (Family joke.) 

Sunday, January 1, 2017

Machu Picchu: Part 1

I'm delaying writing my post on Machu Picchu because there's so much to say. I've been trying to decide if I should try to do a play by play or if it's impossible. There's so much going on around me and so much exploration that in some ways I feel as if my brain can't form sentences at the end of the day. So, I'll give it a go and see if I can provide something ya'll can follow. 

We took Peru rail from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes on December 28. It took us about 1.5-2 hours in a taxi to get from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, and after chilling for lunch in Ollantaytambo we took the train to Aguas Calientes. We intentionally went a day early so that we could have the entire day at Machu Picchu. What was really interesting to me was finding out that Machu Picchu was known by a few outsiders and by locals period to 1911. In fact, locals even used some of the terraces to farm. Hiram Bingham is credited with "discovering" Machu Picchu, but in reality what he did was make the world pay attention and care about it. I was so interested in his story that I actually just bought his book that he published after Machu Picchu was excavated. The forward to that book is written by another author who appropriately says that Hiram Bingham should be credited with the "scientific discovery" of the site because without him it's likely that the world wouldn't know of Machu Picchu. Bingham was a Yale professor and negotiated support from National Geographic, who published Bingham's findings and a photo essay of the excavation of the site.

What was even more fascinating was learning that even though Machu Picchu was "discovered" in 1911, it didn't become the popular attraction that is is today until the early 2000s. It was named a modern wonder of the world in 2007. Apparently in the 1980s and 1990s it was still possible to actually camp on site! I can't even imagine how phenomenal that would have been. I had a random conversation with an airline pilot from the States who said he had been to Machu Picchu just five years ago and that the organization and formalization of accessing the site changed dramatically. A lot of credit goes to Melissa for researching and organizing our trip because she was able to purchase our train tickets and tickets to Machu Picchu from the US. The pilot told me that you used to be able to just buy everything the day you visited. As I said in a previous post, Melissa also secured our Huayna Picchu tickets in July because they are in such demand. 

So, we arrived the day before we planned to go to Machu Picchu because we knew that people try to get up to the site for sunrise. Also, our Huayna Picchu tickets were timed and we knew we had to enter that hike between 10:00 and 11:00 AM. We decided to try to catch a relatively early bus so that we could see the morning view that's typically partially covered in fog/ clouds, so our hike, and then tour more of the site after. Our hostel was crazy loud and we were very excited so it wasn't very difficult getting up early to catch a bus. We were in line for the bus at just a few minutes after 6:00 and we waited approximately 30 minutes to board a bus. If I remember correctly, at that point busses had already been running for 30 minutes or so for everyone who tries to get up there for sunrise. We had basically no desire to be part of that group.

 

On the bus ride up to Machu Picchu all I could think was, "Thank God my mother isn't here and thank God she doesn't know that is what we're doing right now!" Mom, you would have freaked. LOL The entire ride up was steep and narrow switchbacks with two-way traffic on stone roads that drop off Dow  to the valley floor. Multiple times our bus had to stop, reverse, move even closer to the edge, and then proceed. I had the pleasure of riding in a seat at the window and had to keep repeating the same sentence to myself, "People do this every day, all day..." At some of the turns of the switchbacks I legitimately thought the back end of the bus hung over the cliff edge. It was maybe the most nerve-wracking bus rides of my life! But it was so worth it. So so so worth it! 

Saturday, December 31, 2016

Machu Picchu: Prologue

Spoiler Alert: Melissa and I hiked Huayna Picchu - the tallest peak at Machu Picchu. Only 400 hikers are allowed per day and Melissa bought our tickets in July to make sure we could.

 
Here I am signing into the hike. We also signed out at the end to show that we didn't get lost somewhere in the Andes.

 
I am a super classy girl who knows how to restrain her excitement. This can also be described as me overcompensating to hide my nerves. 

 
About half way up I met a Sabres fan, albeit a fan of her high school mascot. 

 
This was by far one of the most strenuous hikes I've ever done. Melissa faired better, but she regularly climbs mountains whereas I do not.

 
We could call these the relatively easy steps of the hike. 
 
There's more to come, but I'm more concerned with going out to enjoy New Year's Eve in Cusco right now. πŸ˜ƒπŸ‘ŒπŸΌπŸ‘πŸΌ