Today was a disaster for me, a straight up disaster. I slept awful again, despite setting up camp in a fairly serene setting. Camp Frances was a series of wooden platforms nestled into the woods across the side of the mountain. It was really quite quaint. The trees were tall and straight and seemed to bear most of the brunt from the wind. I initially said that the wind sounded like a train running through, but I later amended my statement because it's more accurate to liken the sound of the wind to water rushing out of a dam. I wish I could have captured the sound. I cell phone recording didn't come close to doing it justice. If I closed my eyes I could picture the wind as swirling and gathering in the distance before it rushed out up above our tent. If I wasn't so miserable it would have been magical.
Because of the wind I was freezing most of the night. I really struggled with my sleeping bag. Before the trip I bought a Big Agnes 20 degree plus sleeping bag. I should have been golden. I found myself oscillating between being chilly and being sweaty, which I don't think helped me get warm in the long run. I tried sleeping in just a shirt and gave it the good old college try for about 30 to 45 minutes, but was FREEZING and had to eventually put more clothing on. Ultimately, when I could stay directly on my sleeping pad sleeping on my back I did alright, but if I flipped to my side and slept in a spoon position a bit of my body would hang off the side of the pad. Because our tent was positioned on a wooden platform every time the wind would gust we'd get air pushing through the floor of our tent and then through the part of my sleeping bag that was hanging off the sleeping pad. All in all I think the temperature rating of my sleeping bag was fine, but it wasn't wind proof. The noise of the wind and the cold made for an awful night for me with practically no sleep at all.
Fatigue would have been one thing, but after getting just a little sleep in the early morning I woke up sick. I had a sore through and could feel congestion settling into my nose and my chest. I was not happy to be feeing this way, but at the same time thankful that I didn't start feeling poorly until day four. Despite all my hopes of avoiding her, Aunt Flo came to visit right before we started the trail. If you don't know what I'm talking about, just consider yourself lucky and keep on reading. What sucks is that I had very low energy, felt like someone was sitting on my chest all day, and had been feeling particularly positive. Oh, I completely forgot to mention that while we have been blessed with pretty amazing weather, even with the wind, today it started to rain. We oscillated between a fine mist and downright right all day and never managed to catch a truly sunny moment. This did very little to help me feel better.
I set my intention at the start of the day to be focused on the positive aspects of my day and it was quite the challenge. I like to think that it's mind over matter and that I can make any day a positive day, but it just did not happen for me at all today.
Today was our longest hike - about 5.5 hours total. It doesn't sound like all that much, but when you consider it included elevation changed on the side of a mountain in the wind and the rain while carrying an extra 40 pounds or so... yeah, it's a bit of a longer hike. I was miserable through 95% of it. The trail map showed the changes in elevation and showed a big inclined within our first hour of hiking, but then was supposed to be a gradual decrease in elevation with some oscillating elevation changes. I maintain the map lied. It felt like a near constant uphill climb to me. Every bit of my body screamed at me for those 5.5 hours. My head pounded and my chest hurt. My positivity mantra changed to a chant of survival. My internal dialogue was a constant stream of reminders that it was impossible to give up, that the only way off the mountain was to walk there myself. The wind was the strongest we had experienced yet - 45 mph! There were gusts that literally pushed me from my stance. I joked that I managed not to fall off the mountain, but if it was going to happen it would have happened today. I wish I could have gotten a picture to show the line of hikers digging it and bracing ourselves against the wind on the side of the mountain. It's something that as I think about now is a bit more scary to me than it was in the moment.
We finally arrived at Camp Torres and I felt absolutely miserable. I was barely dragging my feet and trying to dig as deep as possible for motivation to continue to our specific campsite and help set up our tent. As soon as we did I forced myself to change out of my sweaty clothes and to down some water. I then crashed and slept for a little more than an hour. When I woke I felt some of my energy restored, but unfortunately I felt like the cold set into my head and chest even more.
While I slept Melissa hung out in the Refugio and mulled over our plans for tomorrow with a hot chocolate. I was relieved when she suggested that we catch the last bus "home" to Puerto Natales instead of hiking our fifth day as originally planned. The weather report called for more rain and obstructed views, which meant it was pretty pointless to hang around and for me to push through another cold night and another day of hard hiking in the rain. So, we packed up as fast as we could and caught the last bus. Our time on the W has come to an end.