We survived the night! This was not really a question for Melissa, but I'll admit I was a little iffy. I mean, I HAD to survive - there's nowhere else to go. What I mean more so is that I made it through the night unscathed. Melissa and I were exhausted after our long day yesterday so it was a stretch for us to stay up until 9:30. We wouldn't have even made it that far had we not absolutely had to.
The directions for how to reserve the camp sites are insanely confusing - particularly when you're trying to piece together information from various sources across the internet. Truthfully, I can't comment on that part too much because Melissa really did the research and the planning for this trip. However, I did read some and I found all of the information to be confusing - some conflicted others, it was hard to find the most current information, and here's the real kicker: the park is controlled by three different entities. It's split between a private family, the government, and a corporation. They all have various interests and objectives, and from what we've heard they don't necessarily get along. Of course, this means that as one treks across the park, reserving camp sites means working with three different entities. Throw in different types of accommodations one can reserve and different cost and this whole deal gets complicated.
Melissa was able to reserve two of the four campsites we needed, but read a ton of information that said we could basically walk up on the day of our treks for the other two because those were free campsites and you couldn't reserve them online, or were strongly encouraging doing it in person. Where this all starts to go sideways is when the Park cracks down on the number of people at each campsite because of overuse issues. One helpful individual at Erratic Rock, a hostel and camping supply rental store, told us that two sites have already been closed down because they were so overcrowded that the area was deteriorating and the bathrooms literally overflowed and made people sick. I'm totally on board with the Park limiting access in order to preserve this phenomenal land. BUT, what sucks about it is that their restrictions are not widely publicized, nor are they clear as to how and when the new standards are being put into place. Melissa and I felt confident about our plans until we found out just a few days before we were supposed to start the W that we might have been turned down at the park entrance. A few days before we were supposed to depart we rushed around to the offices of the different companies that manage the camp sites (again, because having one company manage it all is completely out of the question) we were able to secure another night. This meant that when we entered the Park, we still had one night unsecured. We heard several ominous predictions about being turned away if we couldn't produce reservation numbers for every night and we saw multiple signs reminding visitors that reservations are REQUIRED.
I gave all that backstory to say that we had a glorious start to Day 2 when Melissa checked in with one of the workers at the Grey Lake Refugio and she told us we got the a-ok for a sight reservation at Paine Grande. If you picture our route as a "w" (hence the "W Circuit") on Day 1 we trekked from the bottom of that first line (Paine Grande) up to the top and then stayed at the Grey Lake campsite. On Day 2 we hiked back down the same line to meet Paine Grande again. To start off knowing that we had a place to stay at the end of our day we a huge relief. We were encouraged by several people to smile, ask politely, and keep following up. It seems like in the future this practice will be quite frowned upon, but in the first year while they make these substantial changes regarding there is a liiiittle bit of wiggle room. As one person told us, "Be nice, smile, and remember that no one wants to turn away two young girls. And remember that being cocky or acting entitled to a spot won't get you anywhere." Thankfully, it all worked out because our only other option would have been to try another campsite out of the park or even be forced to go all the way back to Puerto Natales between our first day and our third day of hiking. That would have involved again the two hour bus ride, followed by another hour or so bus ride and the boat ride.
This has all worked out great and I'm super thankful it has, but I'm also writing this in a tent at the base of a mountain where it's supppppper windy. I wrote about this in Day 1, but the Paine Grande sight has been nothing but wind. When we arrived after completing today's hike I would have called it breeze. After we got our tent and belongings settled, we ate our ceremonious cookies and pringles with a Coke and a beer. I placed five pringles on a picnic table to take a picture of Melissa and they blew off the table. That's right, I had to chance them across the grass as the tumbled in the wind because there was a gorgeous fox about 20 yards from us earlier. We didn't want him to get any ideas. Right now it's definitely windy - so much so that our tent is constantly flapping in the air and I'm dreading the moment when I can no longer hold it and I need to get up and out of my mummy sleeping bag to go to the bathroom. It's 8:39 PM and I'm impressed with myself and that I'm still managing to stay awake. I can tell that it's not for much longer. To paint the picture even more, I'm going to sleep in no less than: underwear, sweatpants, socks, a tshirt, a fleece pullover, a down vest, a scarf, a hat, and gloves. I'm all rolled up inside my mummy sleeping bag.
Putting my pack this morning wasn't quite as painful as I expected. I definitely have tender hips, but not quite bruises yet. I expect them to form fully before this part of the trip is over. Even though I insisted that we bring them, I am thankful every time we finish and apple because apples are heavy! This biggest challenge physically of today was about 15 minutes of our hike within the first hour. In those 15 minutes we climbed eight steep inclines that would have been challenging to do, even without an extra 40 pounds on our backs. BUT, we did it! I asked Melissa at the start of our day if she wanted to set our intentions of the day (yoga really got to me). I set mine to be a reminder that I am strong and that God gave me the ability to do this, I just need to remind myself that I am strong and capable. So, in the hard times I reminded myself again and again that I was blessed and that I could conquer the day. The mental might got me through! Well, that and the wind at my back instead of in my face all day like yesterday. LOL
